Mexico City’s Hidden Gems: A Literary and Culinary Journey Through Valeria Luiselli’s Favorite Spots
Valeria Luiselli, the acclaimed author of Lost Children Archive and Sidewalks, offers a curated guide to her beloved Mexico City, revealing the city’s soul through its architecture, literature, and vibrant culinary scene. Forget the tourist traps – this is a deep dive into the capital’s authentic heart.
Exploring the Capital’s Literary Landscape
Luiselli’s work, deeply rooted in Mexican migration and the border crisis, draws heavily from her upbringing and travels. Her PhD thesis, admittedly less captivating than her novels, explored the city’s architectural and literary heritage. But for a truly immersive experience, she recommends starting at the Gran Hotel Ciudad de México, a stunning Art Nouveau relic that once served as a department store – a decadent glimpse into the city’s past since 1899. Don’t miss John Bryson’s photograph of this architectural marvel.
A Taste of Mexico City
Beyond the hotel, Luiselli champions a diverse range of culinary experiences. For a truly authentic street food fix, head to Tacos El Güero. But for a more refined taste, Páramo offers delicious tacos de suadero in a charming setting, while Rosetta, helmed by the exceptional Elena Reygadas, provides a sophisticated blend of Mexican and Mediterranean flavors. Breakfast is best enjoyed at Sanborns de los Azulejos, a historic institution, or at El Cherán in the Central de Abasto for a hearty dose of tacos de carnitas.
Local Delights & Hidden Treasures
Fuel your explorations with a strong cafecito at Cafecito Alex, a tiny hole-in-the-wall on Avenida Veracruz. Alternatively, savor a latte at Café El Jarocho, where the aroma of freshly roasted beans fills the air. Indulge in Helado de mamey – a uniquely Mexican ice cream – at any local vendor. Late-night cravings? El Califa is a reliable option.
Art, Shopping & Nature
Art enthusiasts should prioritize the Museo Nacional de Antropología, Luiselli’s absolute favorite. Explore the works at the Museo Franz Mayer or the Museo de Arte Moderno. For unique clothing, Proyecto Rufina showcases beautiful, handmade pieces created by an all-women collective. Don’t forget to shop for flowers at The Florería Jessica and pick up a traditional wooden toy – a Voladores de Papantla – as a souvenir. For a natural escape, venture to Cárcamo de Dolores, a hydraulic structure offering a fascinating glimpse into its workings.
Practical Tips & Insider Recommendations
Getting around is easiest with the Metrobús and bicycles. A day trip to Tepoztlán, just an hour outside the city, is a must – the market’s quesadillas are legendary. For breathtaking views, hike up Tepozteco or enjoy a farm-to-table lunch at Sotobosque. And for a truly unique experience, seek out Avenida Revolución #119, the Conjunto Isabel, an abandoned Art Deco private residence. Luiselli suggests visiting during the rainy season (June to October) for dramatic monsoons. Finally, unwind at Koti, a spa offering a intensely hot sauna and a cold plunge. Don’t miss Thai Town in Colonia Nápoles for some of the best pad thai outside Thailand.