Bret Easton Ellis’s ‘The Shards’ Echoes ‘Less Than Zero’’s 80s Style

Bret Easton Ellis’s 1987 novel “Less Than Zero” and its subsequent film adaptation sparked considerable debate, but it remains a potent time capsule of 1980s Los Angeles style. Ellis consistently explored the ‘Designer Industrial Complex’ – the pursuit of wealth and appearances – throughout his career, from his early work at Bennington College to his 2023 novel, “The Shards.”

A Focus on Consumerism and Appearance

His writing, characterized by a detached, voyeuristic perspective, captured the era’s obsession with consumerism and the superficiality of wealth. Descriptions of designer labels – Polo Ralph Lauren, Armani, Calvin Klein, Gucci, and Ray-Ban Wayfarers – were presented almost casually, reflecting the widespread expectation of such nonchalant displays of affluence.

‘Less Than Zero’s’ Visual Style

The film adaptation, starring Andrew McCarthy, Jami Gertz, and Robert Downey Jr. (with a young Brad Pitt as a background extra), was costumed by Richard Hornung, who also worked on films like “Patty Hearst” and “Natural Born Killers.” Hornung’s work aimed to convey a sense of lived-in privilege through Blair’s power suits, Julian’s expensive but disheveled look, and Clay’s retro narrow lapels.

Continuing Influence

As set designer Barbara Ling noted, the abundance of modern art in 1980s homes reflected a broader trend of acquiring objects for investment rather than genuine appreciation. Today, while fashion is less detached, Ellis’s style continues to resonate, evidenced by recent revivals of 80s trends, such as the broad shoulders seen in Marc Jacobs’ fall 2028 collection.